Blanks are usually supplied with a sticker (or "sticker" in Shakespearean language) giving the blank's references, its power, length, etc.
Some create their own stickers to take their customization Pleasure to the limit... and get splendid results.
Note in passing that Rodhouse offers transparent self-adhesive paper perfectly suited to the creation of a personalized sticker... as well as the possibility of printing your logos and inscriptions on this paper, for you. Indeed, it's not possible to print in white or in a metallic color (silver, gold...) with a standard printer.
"Default" layout...
We all tend to stick our stickers in the same way, whether on a blank like a car boot, fridge, or whatever... i.e. by lifting one corner of the sticker from its backing. A few problems regularly occur in this case, especially with a sticker the size of a cane sticker, and on a cylindrical surface, destined to be varnished...:
- Difficulty in holding and handling the sticker properly, due to lack of "grip", increased risk of air bubbles under the sticker, and/or crooked application;
- Contamination of an edge (usually a corner) of the sticker... when peeling it off its backing with a fingernail, or tweezers for example, you touch a small surface of the adhesive. This surface will de facto adhere less to the blank, and the sticker is likely to lift up after the varnish has been applied... but before it has dried...
Tip for "clean" sticker placement
Here's a simple tip on how to apply a sticker properly, and more easily.
Already, preparing the sticker, by keeping it wrapped around a pencil for a few hours, can only help.
Material requirements:
- A sticker, of course...
- A blank... it's nice to have a blank.........
- Office tape, the slightly opaque kind, and especially one that can be removed from a sheet of paper without tearing or damaging it
- Eventually a burnisher, or even better, an eraser.
First step:
Cut a strip of tape longer than the sticker (5 cm of rubna sticking out on either side is fine...).
Apply this strip to the sticker...
Second step:
Remove the protective film. With most stickers (like here an NFC), the protective film peels off by itself, so there's no risk of "polluting" a piece of the sticker (which would then risk lifting up when the varnish is applied)
Third step:
We put the sticker on the blank, but holding the sticker by the sticky tape that's sticking out! Like here... well, normally I do it holding the ribbon by both ends, but I needed a free hand to take the photo... The ribbon in particular gives a much better grip, facilitating a straight pose.
Fourth step:
A stroke of eraser (my preference, as it heats up a bit, just right) or burnisher, or finger... and we remove the tape...
Fifth step:
After a few strokes of the eraser, we can remove the sticker's backing film.
Advantages:
- Easy to reposition until the first stroke of the eraser.
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Some comments from experienced rodbuilders:
Super your tuto, it will help more than one, including me...
Byron
The method is perfect to get a superb result, bravo and thank you!
Dédé
Virtually all my stickers are either crooked or with ugly edges... when something as silly as that already existed... thanks for this tuto, since I applied the technique, no more badger stickers!!
Lesfilmu (Mr. "I've almost finished mounting all the blanks in the store...")
Top-notch, and terribly well explained
Loy15 (Mr. "custom stickers")
A silly but very useful tutorial, thank you.
Bixto
Great! this will come in handy too! thanks!
Islou
3 comments
Anonymous
Cool l’astuce de la gomme
Anonymous
Je n’ai pas essayé sur d’aussi longs stickers, mais il n’y a pas de raison que ça ne marche pas… J’imagine qu’il faut juste faire un peu plus attention lors de la pose, enlever le film de protection au fur et à mesure, car plus c’est long, et plus il y a de chance de se retrouver avec une poussière sous le sticker lors de la pose.
VERDIER DANIEL
Merci pour le tuto.
Est ce que sa marche aussi pour les règles gradués (Stickers de 60 cm de long)
Merci d’avance pour la réponse.
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